Gardeners Gold

By Lyn Hayes, Forsyth County Master Gardener

TownLoafer Magazine, March 2007

While I was experiencing the education process of the Master Gardener program, I was amazed at all the information regarding soil. The key to any successful planting plan is nutrient rich soil. A practical and convenient approach to improving your soil is to add compost.

We spend a lot of our time cutting our grass or raking leaves, bagging it up and setting on the curb to be picked up by a sanitation company, usually for an extra charge. Landscape refuse makes up approximately 20 percent of our landfills. Why not make compost out of this waste and use it to improve the soil in your yard? You can improve the environment and enrich your garden at the same time.

Making Compost

Composting is more than gathering up weeds and leaves and tossing them in a heap to sit for a period of time. The secret is maintaining a balance between brown matter, such as dry leaves and twigs, which are a source of carbon, and green matter, fresh leaves and discarded vegetables, which are rich in nitrogen. Combining these organic materials together will generate microbial activity which will lead to decomposition. When mixing these materials, the goal should be 2:1 ratio of brown to green.

The compost pile needs to be turned (mixed) to give aeration to the organic matter. Turning the pile once or twice a month will generate the oxygen needed to aid in this process. Use a pitchfork or a digging fork to turn the compost, move the large debris from the outside of the pile to the inside of the pile.

Moisture is another element of the compost pile. Dry compost will not decompose unless moisture is added. The addition of water will promote activity of insects, earthworms, fungi and other microbes. Do not expect rain water to keep your pile moist entirely. The compost should be sprayed down on occasion.

Finally, add a little fertilizer to make the heap start simmering with microbial heat. Use a compost thermometer to measure the temperature of the pile. Most essential microbial action occurs at temperatures of 160 degrees or higher, which will aid in killing off weed seeds and plant pathogens. Turn the pile when its temperature falls below 90 degrees.

Finished compost is cool to the touch and will have an “earthy smell” and a crumbly texture. In general, a well managed compost pile with the proper ratio of materials under warm conditions will be complete in 3 to 6 months. A compost pile left unattended with large materials may take over a year.

Once you have wonderful dark compost, it can be used as a soil amendment or to mulch around flowerbeds.

Green Matter in Compost - nitrogen rich, moist

Grass clippings
Flowers & green foliage
Fruit & vegetable waste
Coffee grounds & filters
Tea bags
Manure - rabbit, chicken, horse etc. (do not use dog or cat droppings)

Brown Matter in Compost - carbon rich, dry

Twigs (chopped)
Dry leaves
Straw
Wood chips
Wood ashes
Sawdust
Egg shells
Shredded newspaper

NO - NO’S in the Compost Pile

Meat scraps, bones or fat - these items can lead to rodent problems, pest infestations and smell
Dairy products - will lead to rodent problems and smell issues
Diseased plant debris - this could lead to the spread of garden diseases
Pesticide - treated wood or plant material - this will kill any beneficial organisms that will live in your pile
Weeds with set seeds - this may cause problems in your garden
Charcoal ashes - much too alkaline
Pet droppings (dog or cat) - may contain parasites you do not want in your pile

Composting Containers
A variety of containers can be purchased through gardening websites. These barrel type containers will mix and rotate your materials for you. However, most gardeners like to compost in bins that consist of wire, wood or even concrete blocks. There is not one method that will produce better compost over another.

More information about compost in your garden is available at www.caes.uga.edu/extension. Good luck and happy composting!