Yumm... Fresh Veggies

By Lyn Hayes, Forsyth County Master Gardener

TownLoafer Magazine, April 2007

Vegetable Gardening 101

Considering planting a vegetable garden this year? Be sure to ask yourself these questions first: Who will be doing the work? Will this be a family endeavor or will you be handling the hoe alone in between camping, vacations and swimming practice?

How do you plan to use the produce from your garden? If you plan to can, freeze, dry, or store part of your produce, this will be a factor not only in planning the size of your garden, but also in selecting varieties. Some varieties have better “keeping quality” than others.

Plan your garden on paper or your computer first. Draw a map showing placement and spacing of your crops. If you want a full season garden, you will want to set up a spring/summer and fall plan.

Select a Proper Site

A vegetable garden should be in a site where it will receive a minimum 6 to 8 hours of full sunlight. Early morning sun is important to dry dew from the leaves. Tall and trellised crops should be planted on the north side of the garden so they won't shade the shorter vegetables. The site should be in a convenient location so the garden can be observed frequently for insect, disease, weed problems, and have easy access to water.

Soil Preparation

Soil is very important in growing a successful garden. It may be necessary to “sweeten the soil” because the acid level is too high. Lime can be used for this purpose. In order to get the most out of the nutrients in the soil, a proper pH of 6.0 to 6.5 needs to be maintained.

Lime - Apply the lime at the rate that is recommended from the test. Georgia soils are deficient in magnesium. Dolomitic lime, which contains magnesium as well as calcium, is recommended. You should apply the lime 2-3 months prior to planting to allow sufficient time for the lime to adjust your soil pH. Lime reacts slowly. Incorporation of lime into the top eight inches of soil will speed up the process.

Organic Matter - Materials such as manure, compost, peat moss, leaves, and green plant material should be added at least one month prior to planting and worked into the soil. When organic materials break down and decay, the residue is called humus. Humus improves soil structure and the soils ability to hold water and nutrients. Fresh material applied at the time of planting can interfere with the seed germination or injure newly planted transplants.

Fertilization

Placement, amount, and the time of application of fertilizer are all very important. Vegetables are classified in three groups based on fertilizer needs (heavy, medium, and light feeders).

Heavy feeders require four or five lbs. of 10-10-10 or equivalent per 100 square feet. These include: tomatoes, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, and cabbage.

Medium feeders require 2.25 - 3.5 lbs. of fertilizer per 100 square feet. These include: snap beans, carrots, cucumber and the majority of other vegetables.

The only light feeder, which requires about 1.5 lbs. of fertilizer per 100 square feet, is the southern pea.

Basic fertilizer should contain N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). Nitrogen is great for top growth, Phosphorus is great for the root of the plant, and Potassium is good for the overall health of the plant.

Irrigation

For any garden to be successful, it needs adequate water. Overhead watering in a vegetable garden is the biggest mistake people make in setting up their garden plot. The spray on the leaves and the splash from the soil lead to fungus and disease problems. The best and most efficient way to water is through drip irrigation system or soaker hoses. This provides your plants with direct water to the root with little evaporation. Watering should be done between the hours of 9:00 pm and 9:00 am. Gardens normally need one to two inches of water each week during the growing season. The two periods that are most critical to the growth cycle are the first two weeks of growth and during the bloom/fruit period. Watering is vital to ensure a satisfactory root system. Remember to check watering restrictions in your area.

Crop Rotation

The term crop rotation should not be confused with succession planting, which is the planting of different crops in the same place in the garden in a single season. An example of that are early English peas followed by a later crop of cucumbers.

Crop rotation refers to planting different crops in a particular space in the garden from one year to the next. Changing the type of crop you plant in a certain spot from year to year will help minimize the development of soil borne diseases. It will also aid in managing soil fertility. Many insects depend on certain types of plants to survive and by moving your crop from one place to another you are cutting off their food source. Because your space may be limited and your garden needs to remain in the same place each year, crop rotation is important.

Insects

In spite of what you might believe, only 3% of all insects are classified as “Pests”. To avoid the infestation of insects:

· Inspect your garden often
· Keep your garden free of infected plants
· Remove old mulch materials and re-apply new matter
· Try to avoid “over use” of chemical products that kill insects. These products also kill the beneficial insects

Now, plant yourself a garden! Read your seed labels. Read your plant tags. Watch your spacing and don’t over buy. Planting can be so fun we tend to over-do it. Be wise and enjoy!

Sources: Georgia Master Gardener Handbook, Walter Reeves & Felder Rushing “The Georgia Fruit and Vegetable Book